Tuesday, 15 August 2017

Pichavaram - Chidambaram - Poompuhar - Cuddalore - Places around

A quick 3 day plan for site seeing of offbeat places and temples.

Trip members: Karthik and family
Trip date: 13, 14 and 15 August 2017
Trip Plan : Chennai - Pichavaram - Bhuvanagiri - Chidambaram - Vaideeswaran Koil - Thirukadaiyur - Keelaperumpazham - Thiruvengadu - Poompuhar - Cuddalore - Panruti - Chennai

Day-1

Started from Chennai by 6 AM on 13th August and took the ECR route. The roads are just smooth and cruise mode ON. The start of the day was very gloomy and very hard rain started dumping with wind as we crossed Mahabalipuram. The entire stretch until Cuddalore was a huge pour down and driving though was difficult, was enjoyable on the ECR during heavy rains.

We stopped at Hotel Vasantha Bhavan just before Marakanam. The basic south India breakfast - Idlis, dosas, Pongal and vadai - were quite good. They served 4 varieties of chutneys and all were yummy. Amidst heavy rains, the hotel staff had arranged a person with umbrella to walk customers from parking area to restaurant - a good one. Overall, a nice stop for good food on the ECR in Marakanam.

We reached Pichavaram around 10:50 AM. There are TTDC operated boats - ticket counter - charging quite cheap when compared to other places. Pichavaram is around 210 kms from Chennai - takes around 5 hours. Pichavaram is around 9 kms from the ECR, a diversion 2-3 kms before reaching Chidambaram bypass on the ECR. The Pichavaram Mangrove Forest is the world's second largest mangrove forest. Boating is provided for TTDC and Forest department. We got the tickets in the TTDC counter - row boat for Rs.280+ for 4 members. The long weekend crowd was piling up and it looks like we @ 11 AM were pretty ahead of the crowd time.

We got our boat in 10-15 mins waiting time. We chose row boat as I had heard, they take us into very beautiful locations if we pay them more. Once we started the ride, the boat driver offered help to take us to beautiful locations - closed tunnels inside mangroves. We obliged for Rs.500 and the deal was made. He took us into some deep beautiful locations. The one hour drive was all the penny worth and we believe 2 hours or more could be monotonous and tiring. The early morning rains made the day gloomy and enjoyable. Summer is not a good time to visit this place.










There is enough parking space, small shops for some quick drinks, water and snacks. One needs to plan 2-3 hours for Picharavam. There is also a watch tower, Rs.10 per person to enjoy the view of Pichavaram. Overall, plan 2-3 hours for this place. Small snacks shops are available and no food options.

We reached Chidambaram by 1 PM and checked in to Hotel RK residency. We had pre-booked our rooms. They have lift option and got our rooms in second floor. The rooms were just ok - bed could have been cleaner. Towels and soap was provided only after asking. The bathrooms doors had no latches. Below average stay for the cost charged. This is 600m from the Chidambaram temple.

We had lunch on Hotel Krishna Vilas - there was no meals. They served mixed rice - puliyotharai, sambhar rice, veg pulav and curd rice. They also had hot bondas as sides. The food was ok and able to have comfortably than most of the places around.

After some rest, we started by 4 PM and visited Bhuvanagiri. Bhuvanagiri is the birth place of Lord Raghavendra Swamy. There is a brindavanam here and quite a small place. Bhuvanagiri is located around 9 kms from Chidambaram. Looks like it is also known for silk as there are lot of silk weavers and showrooms in this small town.


We then, went to Thillai Kaliamman temple. Since this was Aadi month, there was quite a huge crowd; normally, it would not be so crowded. This temple is located around 500m from the Chidambaram temple. The temple is open from 6.30 a.m. to 12.00 a.m. and 4.30 p.m. to 8.30 p.m.


Around 6:30, we visited Thillai Natarajar Temple - the main Chidambaram temple. The main deity is Lord Shiva in the form of Lord Natarajar popularly known as Sabanayagar. This temple is one of the Pancha Bootha Sthalams - depicting Sky. This is also one of the 5 sabhas - Pon Ambalam (Golden roof). It was quite crowded as it was a long weekend. We met a Dheekshithar, known to us by a friend and he asked us to wait for some time. We had a good dharshan of Lord Natarajar on the Sabha and he also took us all around for the dharshan of other sanctums - Lord Govindaraja Perumal, Mahalakshmi, Mokuruni Vinayagar, Adhimoola Lingam, Sri Sivagamasundari and few more small sanctums.


One would need 2-3 hour to see all sanctums in this temple and go around. It is normal that the dances of Bharathanatyams happen here on daily basis and it is matter of pride to dance in this temple. The temple is also know for Chidambara Ragasiyam - There is small entrance near Lord Sabanayaka in the Chit Saba towards the right side of the Lord.  The screen is removed momentarily for few seconds and an arati is offered.  There hangs a golden Vilwa garland and no idols. Worshipping this is termed as an important aspect in the religion.

We then had dinner at a restaurant outside the temple - they serve idlis, dosas and pongal made of millets. The food was prepared fresh and served. It was very good quality - the chutneys and sambhar were very good. We went around 9 PM and all special millet dishes were over by then. The cost was also quite low compared to the quality.

Day-2

Started the day by 6:30. The plan for to complete 4 temples around Sirkazhi and then Poompuhar. We first visited Vaitheeswaran Koil. Vaitheeswaran Koil is 27 kms from Chidambaram - takes around 45 minutes. We reached the temple by 07:15. Shiva is worshipped as Vaitheeswaran - the "God of healing". The temple is one of the nine temples of Navagraha (nine planets) and is associated with the planet Mars (Angaraka). The Goddess is Thaiyalnayaki. The other presiding dieties are Muthukumara Swamy, Nataraja, Somaskanda, Angaraka and few more. There is a practice of jamming solid jaggery, salt and pepper in a pot outside Goddess Thaiyalnayaki to get out of all the diseases. It takes around 30 minutes for one to visit this temple, if no crowd.



We had breakfast in a restaurant nearby - Hotel Sree Vaitheeswara. They had idlis, vada, Dosai and pongal. All food were ok - service could have been better as they were lazy to serve the sides again and again. Cost is obviously cheap as per the location.

Second temple in the visit was Thirukadaiyur. Thirukadaiyur is around 25 kms from Vaitheeswaran temple. The presiding deities are Amritaghateswarar and Abhirami. This temple is known for rescuing Markandeya and also performing 60th marriage - Sashti Aptha Poorthi for elders. This temple is very old, dated back by centuries.

Third temple for the day was Kezhaperumpallam - this is Kethu Sthalam - one of the Navagraha temples. Naganatha Swamy is the main deity. The temple is 4 kms from Poompuhar. The temple is open from 6.00 a.m. to 12.30 a.m. and from 3.30 p.m. to 8.30 p.m. The temple is quite small and takes around 5-10 minutes to complete the visit of the sanctums.



Next, we visited Thiruvengadu - 8 kms from Kezhaperumpallam. This temple is called Swetharanyeswarar Temple. The temple is home for one of the Navagrahas - Mercury - Budhan. The presiding deity is Lord Shiva in the form of Swetharanyeswarar and the goddess is Brahma Vidyaambal. Other shrines within the temple are - Aghoramurthy, Durga, Kaliamman and few more.



We visited Poompuhar. Poompuhar has relation with ancient Cholas; Poompuhar being used as a main harbour. River Cauvery also meets Bay of Bengal in this location. The Poompuhar is very popular through the tamil epic - Silapathigaram. The town has put arches in the name of Karikaal Chozhan, Kannagi, Kovalan, Madhavi and Ilangovadigal (author of Silapathikaram).






The town does not have great tourist attractions apart from a not so maintained temple - Palavanaeswar temple, Palavanaeswaram excavation site, Cauvery merging point and the beach. Palavanaeswar temple is very old not so maintained well. It is just opposite to the Palavanaeswaram excavation site. Palavanaeswar temple hosts a big linga and was very pleasant to visit. This is the birth place of saint Pattinathar.

Palavanaeswaram excavation site - just a board helps us identify the spot and the gates were closed. We did not enter inside or neither anyone around to help us for more information.




Poompuhar beach has the Silapathikaram Art gallery and the main beach. There is a ruined road - 100m before the Silapathigaram Art gallery. This leads to the Poompuhar light house, other half of  Poompuhar beach, Sri Rathnapurneswari temple - also called Cauvery amman temple and the confluence point of River Cauvery in to Bay of  Bengal.

Poompuhar light house is open from 3 PM to 5 PM only. We went by noon and it was closed. The light house would guarantee you a great view. So, please plan accordingly.

Poompuhar beach is quite clean and white sand beach. One can spend lot of time here if you have. There are rock piers laid to prevent erosion in the delta region and this provides a great platform to enjoy the sea and click memorable photos.

Sri Rathnapurneswari temple - also called Cauvery amman temple (locally) is a small temple worshipped by locals. This is present at the exact point where Cauvery exits land and merges with Bay of Bengal.







Silapathigaram Art gallery - entrance fee is Rs.5 per adult and Rs.2 per child. The gallery is closed for lunch from 1 PM to 2 PM. We were on time to visit the gallery before the lunch time closure. The gallery hosts the sequence of events in Silapathigaram and how the story of Kannagi-Kovalan-Madhavi happened. One needs to have knowledge about Silapathigaram to understand the art gallery; else, it would be difficult to follow.

We then started back from Poompuhar. We had some bajjis and sodas near the beach.

We stopped for lunch around 2 PM at a hotel on the highway towards Chidambaram - Cuddalore. Hotel Yathraas. They serve meals like home made - rice, sambhar, rasam, kulambu, curd, poriyal, kootu and appalam for Rs.80. The food was good and nice in the location.

We reached Cuddalore by 4 PM and checked in at Hotel Suriyapriya. We had pre-booked rooms at Hotel Suriyapriya. The rooms were clean, spacious and comfortable. There is no lift in this hotel and I guess no restaurants as well. The service was also good in this hotel. This is located in a prominent junction in Cuddalore. We had dinner at a restaurant opposite to the hotel - Hotel Ananda Bhavan. Dinner options were good and so was the food. We had chilli parotta, dosas, set dosa. All were yummy and good with lots of sides - varieties of chutneys and podi.

We visited the Silver beach around 6 PM. The  approach roads and parking facilities are excellent to the beaches. As any beach, quite a number of eateries are available in the beach. The beach is maintained very clean. The coastline is absolutely fantastic to spend an evening. The weather was excellent to spend in the beach. Silver beach is definitely good to visit for anyone going to Cuddalore.



Day-3

Started the day at 6:30 and the plan was to visit 2 temples in Cuddalore and then one at Panruti. Then, drive back to Chennai through Tindivanam by noon - the idea was not to get caught in the traffic of 4 days long weekend.

Padaleeswarar Temple - A must visit in Cuddalore! It is 3 kms from Cuddalore, The temple is very old. The temple is known for its well designed pillars. The place is called Thirupadiripuliyur - known as Padaliputhiram of South India. A single prayer here is equal to 16 prayers at Kasi ,8 prayers at Arunachalam & 3 prayers at Tillai Nataraja temple. The temple timings are 6 AM to 11.30 AM and 17:30 to 20:30 PM. The temple has parking area around the streets of the temple.


Devanathaswamy Temple is at Thiruvanthipuram. This tempel is located in Cuddalore, the Devanatha Swamy temple is about 7-8 kms away. Temple timings are 6 am to 11 am in the morning. The dieties are Perumal, Hyagrivar and Mahalakshmi. This is one of the 108 Vaishnava temples. The Hyagrivar sanctum is on top of a small hill just opposite to the main temple. One needs to climb around 100 steps for this sanctum.



We searched for a hotel for breakfast but no proper restaurant to have food. We had some puliyothare and thattai from the temple. Panruti is 23 kms from this temple. We reached Panruti to have breakfast by 8:45. We had breakfast at hotel Devamirtham - the poori, idlies and dosas along with sambhar and chutneys were excellent. Though the crowd was not there and only one person serving, it took little extra time but the food was worth it - quite homely.

We visited the Veerattaneswarar Temple, Thiruvadhigai, Panruti - It is believed that praying at this temple cures stomach related pains and ulcers, freedom from enemies, child boon and any curse from Generations to Generations.  This is the temple where the Saiva Poet Thirugnanasambandar was glorified with the cosmic dance of Lord Siva. Old Jain temple was demolished by Mahendra Verma Pallavan and a Hindu Temple was built here. The temple hosts specialty of each star and the temples, trees and fruits associated to it. The temple is well maintained.




We then set our direction to home and in 2 hours back home! The road connecting Panruti and Vikravaandi was very average. Mind it when you plan.



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