Trip members: Karthik and family
Trip date: 15, 16, 17 and 18 Sept 2017
Road Trip Plan : Chennai - Kadapa - Gandikota - Belum - Yaganti - Mahandandi - Nandyal - Srisailam - Nellore - Chennai
Day-1Started from Chennai around 05:45 in the morning and took the route towards Thiruttani - Renigunta - Kadapa - Yerraguntla - Gandikota. We expected to reach around 2 PM at Gandikota. We stopped for breakfast by 7:15 at Thiruttani at Hotel Saravan Bhavan on the highway where we exit Thiruttani. The breakfast was very satisfactory - hot idlies, pongal, vada, dosas and coffee. The service was also very good with respect to serving the sides again and again and again. We the set direction for lunch around Kadapa. The roads were very good until we reached Kadapa - the roads are single road of NH - mostly truck traffic after crossing Renigunta. Most of the roads go trough the forest area - quite scenic to drive, though the forests are not so thick.
Around 10:45, we crossed a Kodanda Ramaswamy Temple. This temple is at a place called Vontimitta right on the National Highway. This place is around 25 kms before Kadapa. The temple looks to be more than 1400 years old and hosts beautiful sculptures. The temple is dedicated for Lord Rama, Laksman and Sita.
We crossed Kadapa by 11:15 much earlier than we expected and too early for lunch. From Kadapa to Renigunta - the road is of average quality - single narrow road leading all Cement factories - Bharathi, India cements, Zuari and few more industries. There are quite a number of trucks enroute and a lot of speed breakers. Need to be quite cautious as the speed breakers are like Chameleon!
We did stop a couple of times enroute and reached Gandikota around 1:15 PM. We had pre-booked rooms in APTDC Haritha - the only facility to stay in Gandikota. Gandikota - last 18 kms are so are very narrow up-down roads - feel good to drive as there is almost zero traffic. This stretch has no diversions and leads to Gandikota blindly. The APTDC Haritha is first evidence of living beings in this locality and cannot be missed at all. The facility is quite spacious and has 10 rooms, restaurant and rest rooms. We had lunch there as we were very hungry - they serve veg meals - rice, pappu, rasam and curd. No sides. The food was simple and ample to eat.
We checked in and took rest in our rooms. The rooms were very clean, good mattress and spacious. They also had a television with Tata Sky! The rooms are given ample space between each other and offers a scenic view of the hills, wind mills and the Gandikota fort. We had an serene experience seeing the sunset!
After some rest, we started to see the Gandikota fort and Canyon by 3 PM. It is 1 km by road from the APTDC Haritha to Gandikota fort. One can drive through the Fortress with care by car. The roads are rock paved and nice to drive through. The fort is a living area for the Gandikota village people even now. Once you get into the Fort, you can see a Charminar - a tower and active schools around. The roads narrow to allow only one car. So, drive carefully - honk and go in the short curves. Gandikota is also known as Hampi of AP.
Going straight towards the end of the town in few metres, one can reach the Mosque. First to see would be a big tank - with steps. Looks like it was the water storage for the village within the fort. The mosque is artistic and quite big. It hosts a cenre domb which was under maintenance when we went. We took some nice pictures. The Granary is just next to the mosque. The granary is quite big and shows the volume of how many people would have lived in the place.
Still walking up - we can see the ruins of Ranganathasamy temple. The temple looks to have followed the Hosyala style of architecture. The temple has beautiful sculptures which were not maintained and sort of getting ruined. We spent around 10-15 minutes here. The main Garbakriha is fully ruined and no idols inside.
Then, we walked towards the beautiful Gandikota canyon. There are no directions here - though, it is best to walk just perpendicular to the Ranganathaswamy temple. As we climbed down the beautiful and gigantic terrain of red coloured rocks, we started seeing the Canyon the river Penna. The Canyon with the red coloured stones - looks like stacked up blocks! So beautiful and grand. We can see the Mylavaram Dam from this view and without the dam - saving the water, the thin stream of water in river Penna would be none. The reflections of the Canyon on the water is something we can only experience and enjoy. The temptation to move further into the Canyon has to be resisted as it is not advisable as it is risky. There are no proper directions or danger signs anywhere around. So, apply mind and exercise caution. It is easy to get absorbed by nature!
Then, we visited Madhavaswamy temple. This temple is almost as ruined like the Ranganathasamy temple. The tower of the temple is the landmark for the area. The temple tower - truncated in the top is the sign of Gandikota from anywhere around. This temple also looks like Hoysala architecture with very nice artistic sculptures. The road leading to the temple is very narrow and can allow only one car. So, mind driving carefully.
We returned back to the hotel around 5:45 PM. It was still quite sunny and breezy. We had some onion pakodas and tea and enjoyed a beautiful sunset.
By, 7:30 pm, we had dinner - the food was spicy but very tasty and enjoyable.
Day-2After a good night sleep, we checked out around 7:30 AM. We then had breakfast - hot hot idlies at the hotel itself as we started. The plan was to visit Belum caves, Yaganti and then to Mahanandi. Belum caves is around 62 kms from Gandikota. We crossed village after village though the roads were good, they were quite narrow. Most of the route is paddy fields.
We reached Belum around 9:30 AM. Belum caves is open 10 AM to 5 PM. And they allow tourists only perfectly at 10 AM! We waited at the parking area till then. Tickets are priced at Rs.65 per adult and Rs.45 per child. No camera fees. We were the first to get in the caves for the day. Belum Caves are the largest and longest cave system in India that is opened for the tourists and is the second largest caves in India after the Krem Liat Prah in Meghalaya. The caves are known for their unique formations such as stalactite and stalagmite formations. The caves were formed over a period of millions of years. The complete structure of caves are like tunnels and run underground. The caves are lighted and becomes narrow as we move on. The whole walk inside the caves would be around 1.5 - 2 kms. The final point is Pathalaganga - where there is a Linga shaped formation and water seeping like a small pond. Some places - we need to squeeze through, some sneak through and some with torch light. As we were the first for the day, the walk was quite thrilling and adventourous. Even if a couple of people would have been there, the thrill would have been missing.
We took around 1 hour. When we returned, till then we were the only one in the whole cave system, giving us a nice experience. One can easily and comfortably spend 90 to 120 minutes. As there were none, we moved swiftly and came out in 1 hour.
We then, started to Yaganti. Yaganti is around 45 kms from Belum caves. The roads are quite scenic criss crossing paddy fields and villages. One just cannot stop anywhere for anything - pack your trip with lots of water and snacks. You cant get anything enroute. Yaganti is famous for the Sri Yaganti Uma Maheswara Swamy Temple. It was constructed by the first Vijayanagara king. Yaganti hosts the main deity - Lord Uma Maheswaraswamy amidst small hills all around. Enroute to the temple, we had cross a running stream of water where the temperory sand filled bridge was overflowing by water. We reached the temple by 12:15 in a hurry that the temple may get closed by 12:30. However, the temple is open until 1 PM. The main temple is surrounded by mountains. There are 3 caves in the right side of the temple - couple of them hosting Linga and one Lord Venkatramana. The steps are very steep and needs to be climbed with caution. The steps leading to the cave hosting a Linga, believed to be mediated by Agasthya, was wet with water dripping from the top. It was quite slippery and not advised for elders.
It was around 1:30 that we completed the temple and 2 caves and were hungry. The temple annadhana hall was open and were serving lunch. However we decided to move on to Mahanandi. The route was again all through fields and very tiny hamlets of agriculture. We just could not even site a proper shop, thanks that we bought some biscuits at Yaganti temple shops. We had biscits and some snacks we carried with us.
We were quite misguided by Google maps at Nandyal to take the Mahanandi route. We ended up in some dead end in Nandyal because of maps. Then, as usual, local help is the best help. We took help from some onlookers and took the right way to Mahanandi. Mahanandi road from Nandyal is around 18 kms. The roads are excellent to drive through and we reached Mahanandi in 25 mins.
We had pre-booked rooms at APTDC Haritha. Thanks to myself that I had booked AC rooms. 32 degrees in these locations were themselves quite sultry and profuse sweating was the norm. The rooms were in the first floor and were ok with space and cleanliness. Hot water was also available all the time and restaurant in ground floor. The hotel is just in front of the temple. We took rest for few hours and visited the temple by 6:30 PM.
Within 15 km radius from Mahanandi, there are nine Nandis known as Nava Nandis. Mahanandi is famous for the Mahanandiswara Temple, the foremost shrine of Nava Nandis. The nine Nandi temples are Mahanandi, Shivanandi, Vinayakanandi, Somanandi, Prathamanandi, Garudanandi, Suryanandi, Krishnanandi and Naganandi. The Mahanandi temple is open from 5.30 am to 9 pm. Mobile phones and camera are not allowed in this temple. There are cloak rooms to deposit these items for Rs.10. The temple hosts Mahanandishwara in the form of Linga. The Goddess is Kameswari. The temple is so blissful and excellently maintained. We spent around 40 minutes and were done with the dharshan of the deities - Lord Mahanandhiswara, Goddess Kameswari, Lord Rama, Anjenaya and many more.
We came out by 19:40. There is a small hotel - Hotel Annapoorna just opposite the temple. We had some dosas in this local outlet and ended our day.
Day-3The plan is to visit Sri Jagajjanani Temple at Nandyal. This is the only 2nd temple of its kind in the entire planet except the 1st one in Himalayas near Lake Manasarovar, which is already collapsed and that’s why this is the only temple which is consisting of Sri Jagajjanani Idol in entire world.
We started from Mahanandi at 7 AM, breakfast was not ready at Haritha resorts. We reached the Sri Jagajjanani temple in Nandyal by 8 AM. We had difficulties in locating the temple, though Google maps shows the right place, the route was all very narrow streets and with 2-wheelers parked in the streets, it was difficult the drive the car through. In double mind whether to go through or move ahead without visiting the temple, few folks in the street said go ahead - the temple is nearby. It was only 250m from where we were struck but it was raining heavily.
We reached the temple and were guided by a man and women on how to get into the temple. No leather allowed - belts, wallets for men. No mobile and cameras allowed. For female, there cannot be any loose hair, they need to be tided up clean and neat, mandatory to apply kumkum and no stickers. With all these done, we entered the temple with 20 steps. The main idol was almost 8 feet high, and was decorated very beautifully. We performed kumkum archana and were helped with couple of books in Tamil. The temple members were kind enough and guided us to understand the temple. We spent around 30 minutes here. Could not click a pic as it was raining and we all were focusing to get the hunger under arrest.
We looked for a pure veg restaurant in Nandyal town, and located Hotel Ganga Yamuna. They served dosas, idlies, vada, upma and pooris. They were just ok and was hot food prepared and served. The restaurant was quite busy and the service was very fast. The rates are very nominal.
We then set the directions to Srisailam. The route is around 172 kms and around 70% of the route was through thick forests. The direction was through Velugodu - Dr.YSR Smruthi Vanam - Atmakur - Nallamalai - Doranala and Srisailam. The stretch of Velugodu to Atmakur were narrow roads and from thereon thick forests and some ghat roads. Again from Doranala to Srisailam - 48 kms is ghat roads with beautiful forests all around. The route to Srisailam involves climbing few hills and getting down and then reaching Srisailam.
We reached Srisailam by 12:45. We had pre-booked rooms at APTDC Haritha - very closeby to the temple. Srisailam hosts one of the 12 Jyothirlingas - Sri Mallikarjuna Swamy Temple. We checked in the rooms and had lunch the Haritha restaurant - buffet of Veg thali for Rs.95 each. We then took rest for couple of hours and then decided to visit the tourist spot - Pathala Ganga. This is visited either by walk in around 800 steps or by car on an unlaid road or by rope way. The entrance for this is around 1 km from the temple.
We chose to go by the rope car. The place has parking area with ample space. They charge Rs.65 for adult and Rs.45 for children. We can also view the Srisailam Dam from this place. The rope car takes us to the banks of river Krishna - water stored as part of the Srisailam dam. This is called as Pathala Ganga. The rope car charge is two way. There is a facility for Boat riding, either you can take a combo ticket (Ropeway + Boating) or you can take boat riding once you reach Pathalaganga. Rope way was readily available - no waiting time when we went. We spent around 20 mins at the banks of Krishna river sighting the dam. We then returned back to room.
We left for the Sri Brahmaramba Mallikarjuna Swamy Temple. We were told at the hotel that no mobile or camera is allowed. We left them at the room and went to the temple. There is normal dharshan and Seekra dharshan (fees) for Rs.150 per person. In the evenings, the dharshan starts by 5:30 PM and we preferred the free dharshan as it was available by 6 PM batch. We were asked to take photo based ticket and entered. The temple follows similar to Thirumala in gathering the crowd in a room and locking them up and followed by many such rooms with different timings. We were in the chamber by 5:20 PM and waited until 6:10 to start moving. There were seats available for the pilgrims to wait.
The queue enters through the main entrance and then directly to dharshan the main deity. One gets time to make their dharshan and not pushed through just like that. The serene feel was omnipresent in the temple and was absolutely graceful to view Lord Mallikarjunaswamy in the form of Linga. The other sanctums include Vinayaka , Veerabhadraswamy, Goddess Bhramaramba, Sahasralingeswara, Uma Maheswara. Once you visit the Goddess, you exit the temple. We entered the queue by around 5:10 and came out by 7 PM.
We then tasted few snacks by road side - vadais, bajjis and pakodas. Some road side shopping happened as there was ample time to go around. We had dinner at Haritha and ended the day very satisfactorily.
Day-4
The plan was to start by 6:30 AM and drive back to Chennai. The suggested route from Google maps was Srisailam - Markapur - Kanigiri - Kandukur - NH16. As the route was more on narrow village roads, we took the route to Ongole and get into NH16 as soon as possible and then drive to Chennai. The route we took was Srisailam - Markapur - Podili - Chimakurthy - Ongole - Chennai. This was just 5 kms more than the suggested route - leading to NH.
We started around 6:45 and reached Doranala by 8 AM. Doranala is the base point for the ghat section. There are lots of small eateries at Doranala. We had tiffen at one of the shops - freshly prepared and hot hot food. There are lots of petrol bunks also at Doranala.
Enroute after reaching NH by 11:15, there were hardly any shops. Fortunately, we located Blue Moon Family Dhabha after crossing Kavali. The food was very good - lassi was ultimate. Cruising through the NH, we reached home by 5 PM.
Tripmeter - 1246 kms.
Distances:- Chennai – Kadapa – 272 kms
- Kadapa – Gandikota – 93 kms
- Chennai – Gandikota – 356 kms
- Gandikota – Yaganti – 88 kms
- Gandikota – Belum caves – 62 kms
- Belum caves – Yaganti – 44 kms
- Mahanandi temple – Yaganti temple – 65 kms
- Yaganti – Ahobilam – 78 kms
- Kurnool - Yaganti Temple – 84 kms
- Kadapa – Ahobilam – 114 kms
- Gandikota – Ahobilam – 81 kms
- Ahobilam - Srisailam – 221 kms
- Ahobilam – Mahanandi temple – 70 kms
- Mahanandi – Nandyal – 16 kms
- Mahanandi – Srisailam – 172 kms
- Srisailam – Kurnool – 180 kms
- Srisailam – Ongole – 175 kms
- Ongole – Tambaram – 329 kms (6 hours)
- Srisailam – Tambaram – 497 kms (Srisailam – Markapur – Kanigiri – Kandukur – Kavali – Nellore – Gudur – Sullurpeta - Chennai)
- Srisailam – Tambaram – 503 kms (Srisailam – Markapur – Podili – Ongole – Kavali – Nellore – Gudur – Sullurpeta - Chennai)
